Marketing - Don't Get Suckered In!

The skin care market is a mega-billion dollar industry. There is so much demand for effective anti wrinkle products, cosmetic companies are continually introducing new anti wrinkle creams to take advantage of this fact.

People are hungry for products that promise skin rejuvenation, and will pay a lot of money in the belief that it will give them younger looking skin.

More often than not, however, it is the pricier skin care products that are ineffective. And it really annoys me when the products don't even come close to achieving the promises that the advertising leads you to believe.

Many of these products are generated and pushed onto the market without testing or proof that they will do anything beneficial for your skin. Instead of spending time and investing money to produce superior, proven anti wrinkle products, most manufacturers will spend their money on marketing and product staging.

And if you haven't realised it yet, marketing is very expensive! But even so, a good marketing campaign can turn a not-so-spectacular small bottle of goo into a huge earner for a cosmetics company.

But don't get me wrong. There are some excellent products that will give you younger looking skin. The complication is in knowing which skin care ingredients and products actually work. Without good information, it can be very hard to find a product that works for you.

Unfortunately, there will never be a lack of people willing to spend good money for the latest anti wrinkle creams, irrespective of whether they help or not. The reality is that most people will not make the effort to investigate cosmetic products and ingredients.

So do yourself a favour, start reading a few wrinkle cream reviews and GET INFORMED before you commit to purchasing that next product. As an informed buyer, you won't fall for the marketing hype. Find out which ingredients are effective and those that can actually damage your skin.

Bad Ingredients - Part 2

Along the same theme as "Bad Ingredients - Part 1", here are a few more components that you may find in anti wrinkle products and various skin care creams. You should be aware of these ingredients and avoid them (especially those associated with being potentially carcinogenic).

Dioxane

Dioxane was originally produced from coconut. Like many other ingredients, it is now created artificially and used in a number of anti wrinkle creams. Unfortunately, the synthetic product now used often contains high concentrations of 1,4-dioxane, which quickly penetrates the skin and blood stream.

It is unregulated in most states and countries, but the state of California lists it as a known carcinogen.

Fragrance

Everyone likes nice smelling creams. However, of the hundreds of different chemicals that fall into the category of "fragrance", many of them contain poisons or known cancer-producing agents.

In reality, there is no reason to include perfumes in skin rejuvenation products. If you want to smell nice, stick with a daub of perfume or body spray. I believe that it's better to use a small amount of fragrance here and there than to apply it onto a large area of skin while applying anti wrinkle products.

Parabens

These may be either propyl, butyl, methyl or ethyl paraben. In many countries they are banned, but many skin products and moisturizers still contain them.

Parabens are preservatives that extend the active life of creams and products. They have been linked to a variety of cancer. They are shown to interfere with the endocrine system (ie the body's gland system), causing allergies, irritation and rashes. One study reported that parabens were discovered in human breast tumors.

If you see parabens listed when you read the product label, don't buy it!

Alcohols

Alcohols can come as either ethyl alcohol (ethanol), methyl alcohol (methanol), SD alcohol, benzyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol. Each type of alcohol has slightly different properties, but an alcohol used in anti wrinkle products will cause dryness and irritation since it removes the skin's protective oils.


So are the cosmetics manufacturers going to alert the public about these deleterious products? Not likely! These companies are too driven with making money, and any admission - especially any association with cancer - would cost them dearly. It's frightening to know that people spend a lot of money to unwittingly apply these poisons to their skin!

Bad Ingredients - Part 1

It's unfortunate that so many skin care and anti wrinkle products on the market contain a range of constituents that can potentially harm you over a period of time, some being carcinogenic. The following are ingredients to be aware of:

Mineral Oil

The moisturizing effects of anti wrinkle creams are commonly achieved by the mineral oils in them. Companies use mineral oil because it cheap. Call it what you will (mineral oil, petrolatum, liquid paraffin, paraffin wax), they are all bad for your skin.

After a single application of an anti wrinkle cream containing mineral oil, your pores will become blocked and your skin won't be able to breathe. Consequently, your skin may form pimples and rashes. And after continued use, your skin will stop producing it's own oils. When this happens, it will become dry and scaly.

This common ingredient in creams can actually do the opposite of giving you younger looking skin.

And what's worse is the result from a recent study on mice that found the application of commercial anti wrinkle creams containing mineral oil and sodium lauryl sulphate significantly increased the frequency of skin cancer.

That brings me onto the next ingredient to avoid...

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)

This inexpensive detergent is commonly used in cosmetic cleansers, shampoos and bath/shower gels to enhance penetration and absorption of other active ingredients. It is arguably the most dangerous ingredient used in skin care products. SLS is used for industrial cleaning of workshop floors, engine degreasers and car wash detergents. It is highly corrosive and attacks oils and greases.

Sodium lauryl sulphate is harmful to skin as it cleans by corrosion. It dries skin by stripping the external protective lipids, which help control skin moisture.

Another serious dilemma is the association of SLS with nitrate contamination. SLS reacts with many ingredients used in skin products to form nitrosomines. These nitrates are potentially carcinogenic.


There are several more bad ingredients discussed in Part 2 of this post.

Ineffective Ingredients

Have you ever wondered why anti wrinkle products don't work when they are meant to be chock full of active ingredients, each with a "proven track record" of providing wonderous benefits to your skin?

Well, one reason is that the ingredients just can't penetrate the epidermis. Creams containing collagen and elastin are good examples. They never reach the dermis layer of the skin because their molecules are too large to be absorded into the skin. Therefore, no matter what the advertisements say, these anti wrinkle creams will do little for skin rejuvenation.

The cosmetic manufactures know about this - they're not fools. They also know that if they use words like 'collagen' and 'elastin', then people will be very tempted to purchase their product.

Another reason as to why creams are ineffective is that most of them have a large water component and only minimal active ingredient. So when you apply the products to your skin, your body heat drives off the moisture. It appears that the creams are penetrating the skin, but this is not the case.

And yet another reason for creams not working as you would expect is due to them not containing natural ingredients. Nature ingredients are more active, but also more expensive, to include in anti wrinkle products than their artificial equivalents. The downside to this, however, is that the synthetic constituents do very little to help you get younger looking skin.

Peptides - The Good, The Bad And The Disappointing

Well actually, it's mainly disappointing!

Peptides That Inhibit Neurotransmitters

Neurotransmitters are things that make your muscles work when your brain tells them to. We're familiar with Botox and it's properties - Botox injections block the release of neurotransmitters to, in effect, paralyze the muscles. Thus, after Botox injections between your eyebrows, when your brain tells your eyebrows to squint, nothing happens.

There are anti wrinkle products being marketed to take advantage of the fact that everyone knows and accepts that Botox works. These anti wrinkle creams contain peptides, but do they really work like Botox?

Peptides are proteins consisting of small chain amino acids. Argireline is the name given to a certain peptide (a lot easier to say than acetyl-hexapeptide-3) that slows down the release of neurotransmitters. In wrinkle cream containing up to 10% Argireline, laboratory tests show that it provides some benefit towards the appearance of having younger looking skin. However, the jury is out about whether the peptides can actually go into the skin and through to the muscle level, which they would need to do to replicate Botox. Some have suggested that it's the product's accompanying moisturizing ingredients that reduce wrinkles by hydrating the skin. Also, if the product worked like it claimed, any muscles that came in contact with the cream (face, neck, finger tips) should cease working - but they don't.

Peptides That Stimulate Collagen

Another peptide (palmitoyl-pentapeptide-3, also called Pal-KTTKS or Matrixyl) is reported to encourage the manufacture of collagen and other proteins that are found in the skin's dermal layer. Sounds promising, but how does it compare with Botox?

Well, tests have been conducted. Unfortunately, it didn't do any better than the plain moisturizer it was being compared against.

Peptides For Stabilizing Copper

Copper plays a vital role in living organisms. For us, collagen and elastin creation rely on the presence of copper. In theory, peptides can be used to stabilize copper, transporting the element to locations in the skin to improve the appearance of wrinkles. In practice, trial tests on people have shown only minimal benefits.

The New Buzzword - Cosmeceuticals

Derived from a cross between cosmetics anf pharmeceuticals, the term "cosmeceuticals" implies that these anti aging creams are better than ever. Unfortunately, these anti wrinkle products aren't the wonder creams that the cosmetic companies would like you to believe.

In a recent test (2009), French and US organisations jointly tested popular anti wrinkle creams and lotions. On average, each cream was tested on 20 women, aged between 30 and 70 years old, for 3 months.

The results showed that all creams had some benefits on all women, but none of the creams had an effect on all participants. And there seemed to be no correlation between the type of active ingredient and performance, nor did cost relate to performance.

Are We Surprised?

If you've already spent a pile of money on anti wrinkle creams that haven't come up to your expectations, this conclusion won't come as any surprise. But there are several reasons why you may also find cosmeceutical creams don't work for your wrinkles...

Firstly, the science of skin aging isn't simple. There are numerous aspects involved, including varied cell regeneration rates, loss of subcutaneous fat, attack from free radicals, varying hormonal levels and breakdown of skin cell components. Therefore, trying an anti wrinkle cream that targets just one or two of these factors won't benefit other skin ailments that you may have.

Secondly, everybody has different skin types. So, it's logical that different anti wrinkle products will generate different results for different people.

Thirdly, while the results from "scientific studies" may indicate that specific components will work in a laboratory situation, it doesn't guarantee that the product will work when you use it on your skin. More often than not, the active ingredients can't even penetrate your skin. Or the active ingredient may be unstable and deteriorate, thereby not having sufficient concentration to affect your skin. Additionally, other ingredients may hinder the activity and benefits of the prime ingredient.

There are a lot of expensive products on the market that don't do a lot in the way of skin rejuvenation. But, coming out of the wrinkle cream reviews, here are three anti wrinkle products that hold some promise:

• tretinoin (also known as retinoic acid), found in perscription-only creams.
• AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), but only in concentrations of greater that 10%.
• sunscreen. Try wearing sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat to minimize the amount of skin damage from the sun's UV rays (and it's likely to be the least expensive, too!).

The Basics Of Skin

Alrighty then! Out with the high school biology books. Well, maybe not quite. But I promised you a rundown of the basics of skin. So here it is. No apologies if I miss out some stuff as I'm not getting into the micro-cellular level of detail. My aim is to be just informative enough for you to grasp the fundamentals but not put you to sleep.

We usually don't think of our skin as an organ, but it is. And it's the largest organ of our body. It makes up about 15% of our body weight.

Our skin is made up of three layers, each playing it's own important part. The layer on the outside is called the epidermis. Underneath this is the dermis. And below this lies the third layer, the subcutaneous fat.

The World Sees Your Epidermis

The epidermis is usually about 0.5 to 1mm thick. At the bottom and lower sections of the epidermis, new skin cells are growing. These cells begin moving toward the top of your epidermis. The skin completely renews itself every 2 to 5 weeks. As the new cells move up to the surface of your skin, the old cells at the top die and flake off. It's estimated that every minute we lose about 35,000 dead cells (give or take a few hundred).

So when you look adoringly at your partner's face, you're really looking at dead skin. (Hmm, I'd better not ponder on this thought too long - I could come up with some very good wise cracks!... So, moving right along...)

While your skin is continually busy making new skin cells to replace the old ones, it is also making melanin. This gives your skin its color. I won't go into too much detail here as I'll be covering this in another post. However, when you go outside into the sun, additional melanin is made to protect you from getting sun burn by ultraviolet rays.

The Dermis Lies Below The Epidermis

The dermis consists of a taut lattice of collagen and elastin fibers. These are important skin proteins. Collagen is responsible for structural support and elastin gives flexibility and resilience to our skin.

It is the thickest of the skin layers and also contains nerve endings, blood vessels, oil glands and sweat glands. The tiny blood vessels keep your skin cells healthy by supplying nutrients and removing waste. The oil glands, or sebaceous glands, produce sebum. This is the skin's natural oil and helps keep the surface of the epidermis protected.

The dermis is in charge of the skin's structural integrity. Wrinkles develop in the dermis. Thus, any anti aging treatment only has a chance of being successful if it can reach down to the dermis.

The Subcutaneous Layer

The third and base layer of the skin is called the subcutaneous layer. It consists mostly of fat and assists your body to stay warm. The subcutaneous layer also helps hold your skin to tissues beneath it.

The loss of subcutaneous tissue, primary due to age, leads to sagging skin and heightened wrinkles.


So there you have it. Now that we know the fundamentals of skin, we can move on towards a better understanding of what to look for in anti wrinkle creams and covering a few tips for achieving and maintaining younger looking skin.

Instant Wrinkle Reduction - Is There Such A Thing?

By the time you realise that you have wrinkles that weren't there last year (OMG!), it's probably too late to achieve "instant wrinkle reduction" using any number of the techniques, lotions, anti wrinkle creams or potions around. But fear not! Over the next days, weeks and months to come, there is going to be a wealth of terrific information available here. So stay tuned to this blog. It's going to be HUGE!

We're going to discuss topics like what makes up our skin, how to look after it, defending our skin against the elements, what's good and bad for skin rejuvenation and lots of wrinkle reduction advice. And we may even be bold enough to review some products and wrinkle reduction techniques currently on the market.

Before you know it, you'll have younger looking skin and be on the receiving end of more than a few compliments! Catch ya in the next post...